Seven-metre waves hit Hawaii surf event

by Russell Jackson

Australia's world No.1 Joel Parkinson has described the scenes at Teahupoo on Saturday (Sunday AEST) as the "craziest" he's ever seen during his many years coming to the powerful Tahitian break.

The surf became so dangerous, the Tahitian government issued a 'code red', blocking day eight of the Billabong Pro from commencing as waves up to seven metres battered the tiny village.

"It feels like it's going to get bigger and bigger throughout the day," Parkinson told AAP.

"I would hate to go out there. I was enjoying watching but that was it. I saw three or four of the most hideous wipeouts that I've ever seen. Guaranteed, it's the craziest I've seen it."

One local surfer was taken to hospital with a suspected broken leg while others have been smashed into the reef and suffered bad cuts.

The swell has been so fierce that waves have been rolling onto people's front lawns and members of the media have been warned their media hut could be flooded and to be ready to evacuate.

World tour veteran Chris Davidson, from North Narrabeen, has been coming to Teahupoo for 15 years and the scenes on Saturday have blown his mind.

"I haven't seen it like this before," he said.

"It's looking pretty rough and tough and even the local boys said then it's not ideal and they've found it a bit hard and nobody has made that many out there.

"It's not perfect like it gets, that swell is coming from a long way and it's looking a bit junky out there.

"If we had to go and surf today, whatever, we would, but they're not going to run in this stuff. Hopefully it settles down tomorrow."

© 2011 AAP

Parkinson suffers rankings blow in Taiti

Australian surfer Joel Parkinson looks set to have surrendered his world number one ranking after he was dumped out in the second round of the Billabong Pro at Teahupoo in Tahiti.

It was a very poor day for Australia's big guns, with fifth-ranked Taj Burrow also eliminated from the competition.

Current number two Jordy Smith is now in the box seat to claim top spot following Parkinson's defeat, with the South African already into third-round action after his opening heat win.

Parkinson went for broke a couple of times on heavy waves but crucially faltered and, in the end, could only manage a 5.03 and a 5.30 for a combined score of 10.33.

Meanwhile, world number 25 Brett Simpson had a 7.67 and a 5.67 for a score of 13.34.

"I took one wave I probably shouldn't have and then I didn't make a really good one and that was it," Parkinson said.

"The wind makes it tough, it's been howling for a few days and there is a real slop on the ocean out there."

He added: "There are really good waves out there and I almost had one but it just cleaned me up at the end.

"It's that sort of place where sometimes you can be an inch away from perfection."

A swell of up to five metres has been forecast for Saturday, with organisers expected to put the competition on hold while big-wave surfers take over with a tow-in expression session.

Irene: Surfs Up!

Surfs up, Irene is right at your door. Florida lucked out and won't see landfall, looks like the eye is going to pass offshore. But the waves, wind and rip currents should be brutal.

Weather experts warn people away from the surf this weekend
By TOM BARTON

Emergency management and National Weather Service officials warned boaters in Beaufort County to stay off the water and swimmers to stay out of the water Friday and Saturday in preparation for Hurricane Irene’s passage this weekend.

Waves and rip currents were already increasing Thursday afternoon on the beaches of Hilton Head Island.

Meteorologists and the Coast Guard warn Hurricane Irene could bring gale force winds to the South Carolina coast and inland waters will be choppy.

The agency increased its alert level for the state’s coast and advised large vessels to make preparations to leave or to let the Coast Guard know they are staying the Irene approaches. Boaters should also make sure small boats are moored properly, and recommends those living on houseboats seek shelter on land.

The National Weather Service issued a tropical storm watch for the coastal waters of Beaufort and Jasper counties.

A tropical storm watch means conditions with winds between 39 and 73 mph are expected within 48 hours.

“Mariners should not venture out Friday and Saturday,” said Steve Rowley, a meteorologist with the National Weather Service in Charleston. “Cancel any plans you have for fishing expeditions. Let this thing pass by. By Saturday afternoon and evening things should start to improve. Things will deteriorate from here on out for coastal waters. Anyone heading into or out of Beaufort County by boat needs to rethink their plans.”

Swimmers, as well, should stay out of the water, Rowley said.

The weather service and Town of Hilton Head Island issued warnings Thursday saying wind and waves breaking in excess of five feet pose a high risk for strong rip currents, which could be life threatening.

Rip currents are narrow, powerful channels of water that drag swimmers away from shore. They happen most often at low spots or breaks in the sandbar and around structures such as groin, jetties and piers.

People should stay off those structures as well, Rowley said. High waves could easily break over them and wash people out to sea, he said.

Swimmers were already being cautioned at the beaches on Hilton Head Thursday afternoon, as currents and waves began to pick up.

“We’ve been tossing flags up constantly today,” said Mike Wagner, manager of operations for Shore Beach Service. “The waves are definitely stronger than usual. We’ve called people in if they’re any farther out than waste-deep water. If you’re not a good swimmer, you should stay out of the water all together.”

The high surf could also cause some minor flooding at high tide in shallow areas along the coast and beach erosion, Rowley said.

Scott Liggett, director of public facilities and projects for Hilton Head, said residents and visitors should expect changes on the beach, including the island’s heel.

Work is slated to begin in early October to pump about a million cubic yards of sand onto a mile-long stretch of beach at Port Royal Plantation to combat a decade of erosion that has claimed about 100 feet of beachfront per year.

“Whether we replace sand lost from high waves caused by Irene will be driven based on need and budgetary concerns and constraints,” Liggett said. “We will see some erosion and sand moved around with the passage of the storm, but it’s hard to quantify what that will be.”

Irene is projected to be about 250 miles out to sea when it passes by the area Friday night into Saturday morning before possibly making landfall near North Carolina’s Outer Banks on Saturday afternoon, with winds around 115 mph.

The storm pounded the Bahamas early Thursday with widespread damage reported on at least two southern islands. It was a powerful Category 3 hurricane with winds at 115 mph. Forecasters said winds will ramp up quickly over the next day and Irene was expected to blow into a Category 4 with winds at least 131 mph.